Pyramids, scams, minarets and a faux paus

As you can tell from the title of this blog, we have had a hectic last two days in Cairo filled in equal measure with wonder, amazement, annoyance and frustration. Wonder at the wonderful pyramids we explored by camel yesterday and amazement at exploring Islamic Cairo, with its minarets and Khan el-Khalili market (the size of a city suburb), but frustration and annoyance at the scammers, confidence tricksters and those locals just out to make a buck off tourists who we have faced every day since arriving in Cairo.

Yesterday was devoted mainly to the pyramids. We got their via public bus and a local who led the way. This was one of the craziest experiences we have been through for the simple reason that buses don't actually stop. People run towards the bus while its still moving and literally jump through the open doorway, and the same applies when getting off. We got a sense of the size of Cairo (there are more than 20 million people here) on the bus journey which went on for ages and yet you never left the city. We were stuck in an almighty traffic jam where there are few rules of the road where bus, car, minibus, donkey, cyclist and moped rider compete with each other fo space. In between all this, people actually cross the road!

As for the pyramids, they are wonderful, breathtaking and everything you expect. The only disappointing thing was that we ended up spending a lot more than we needed to to see them which is a story for another day and was partly our own fault.

Anyway we spent about 3 hours on camels (we even road them ourselves part of the way) wandering among the pyramids and the sphinx. Our guide also showed us the ancient tombs of some of the people who lived at the time of pyramids, inscribed with hieroglyphics.

Today we caught a metro to explore Old Cairo (the oldest part of the city dating back about 700 years) with its churches and a very beautiful old synagogue. From there we caught a taxi to Islamic Cairo. This is a truly fascinating part of the city with mosques and a myriad minarets everywhere. We climbed up Bab Zwayla, the surviving Southern gate of medieval Cairo and dating back to the 10th century and from where these panaromic views of the city were taken (below). We even climbed up the minaret! At ground level, the streets below were clogged with people, market stalls selling just about everything, and craftsmen cutting, sewing and welding. Today was a public holiday and you got a real sense of just how many people are crowded into this enormous city. It was a real eye-opening experience and hard to describe other than its like being at a packed U2 concert that goes on for miles where people push past with enormous boxes on their heads, carrying fridges, pushing packed carts or riding mopeds and even the occasional car. By some miracle we found our way back to our hostel on foot.

As for the confidence tricksters and scammers, lets just say you meet up with people who you think are just being friendly and helpful, but while they are happy to help you there is normally a pay-off expected at the end or its just a scam (to get their hands on your tourist dollars). These are in the minority in what is a very friendly, jovial and very welcoming place, but unfortunately the con-artists target tourists so you have to be on your toes all the time. We have been burned, not badly thankfully, but still it leaves a bitter aftertaste.

As for my faux paus...I thought it strange to be the only male on a metro train packed with women on Monday night (Larna stayed in as she was tired). I took the stares to be directed at my strange appearance, beard and all (I draws stares believe you me). Only later did I realise that the train I was on was reserved only for females and is a hard-fought-for right that women have won in this city. Ah well, you live and you learn.